Tender - Type 464 Webbing Fly Shirt - Cotton Calico (Saddened Wattle Dyed)
The three body panels for the Webbing Fly Shirt are assembled, with the sleeves, and then bias bound all round in one pass, starting and ending underneath the collar, which is added at the end. Instead of a standard buttoned placket, a wide strip of cotton herringbone webbing is sewn to the outside of the right front, and the inside of the left, with buttonholes sewn in place. These are also caught into the edge binding, forming a concealed button fly. Because bias binding can not be used to edge sharp corners, the front opening and sides are cut in smooth curves.
Wave Calico is a variation on the calico used for shirts, and for jeans back pocket linings, since Tender’s first production. For this version, a variation on a broken twill is incorporated into the base plain weave, with warp ends and weft picks raised and lowered to form a slipped / \ pattern on the face of the cloth. This ‘fancy’ twill is cut and sewn loomstate so that it shrinks with washing dyeing, forming a wavy rippled surface in the finished garment.
The three body panels for the Webbing Fly Shirt are assembled, with the sleeves, and then bias bound all round in one pass, starting and ending underneath the collar, which is added at the end. Instead of a standard buttoned placket, a wide strip of cotton herringbone webbing is sewn to the outside of the right front, and the inside of the left, with buttonholes sewn in place. These are also caught into the edge binding, forming a concealed button fly. Because bias binding can not be used to edge sharp corners, the front opening and sides are cut in smooth curves.
Wave Calico is a variation on the calico used for shirts, and for jeans back pocket linings, since Tender’s first production. For this version, a variation on a broken twill is incorporated into the base plain weave, with warp ends and weft picks raised and lowered to form a slipped / \ pattern on the face of the cloth. This ‘fancy’ twill is cut and sewn loomstate so that it shrinks with washing dyeing, forming a wavy rippled surface in the finished garment.
The three body panels for the Webbing Fly Shirt are assembled, with the sleeves, and then bias bound all round in one pass, starting and ending underneath the collar, which is added at the end. Instead of a standard buttoned placket, a wide strip of cotton herringbone webbing is sewn to the outside of the right front, and the inside of the left, with buttonholes sewn in place. These are also caught into the edge binding, forming a concealed button fly. Because bias binding can not be used to edge sharp corners, the front opening and sides are cut in smooth curves.
Wave Calico is a variation on the calico used for shirts, and for jeans back pocket linings, since Tender’s first production. For this version, a variation on a broken twill is incorporated into the base plain weave, with warp ends and weft picks raised and lowered to form a slipped / \ pattern on the face of the cloth. This ‘fancy’ twill is cut and sewn loomstate so that it shrinks with washing dyeing, forming a wavy rippled surface in the finished garment.
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- MADE IN UK
- 100% COTTON
- REGULAR FIT
- DRY CLEAN ONLY -
Fits true to size; take your normal size.
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Drawing inspiration from the great British steam age, Central Saint Martins alumni, William Kroll, presents his vision of antique workwear.Traditionally, the “Tender" was the vehicle which carried the necessary coal and water to power a locomotive steam train. Crafted from riveted cast iron, the Tender was built exceptionally solid in order to transport fuel and enable a train to make its journey across Britain.
All of Tender's clothing and objects are produced in England. The skills necessary to make these pieces are specialized and difficult to find. The garments are produced in small runs, often only a handful of pieces in any one style. A central idea of Tender's philosophy is that the potential of the work and experience which goes into each product only culminates and manifests after the garment has been well worn and becomes a part of the owner's life.
